Three-cheese souffles

These soufflés build on a classic béchamel, first infused with bay leaves, then loaded with nutty Gruyère and sharp Parmesan. A touch of mustard and cayenne adds a subtle warmth to the base, which becomes airy once the whipped egg whites are folded in. Before baking, a slice of goat's cheese goes on top, melting into a tangy finish. They're great baked fresh, but you can also prepare them ahead, chilling or freezing, then reheat with a splash of cream to keep them from drying out.