Jean's Seafood Gumbo

While the water heats, peel and devein the shrimp, keeping the heads and hulls. Set the cleaned shrimp aside in cold water.

In the large "gumbo pot," boil the shrimp heads and hulls for 30 minutes to an hour to create a deeply flavored stock. Strain the stock, discarding the heads and hulls immediately to keep your kitchen from smelling like Bayou St. John the next day.

The roux is the foundation here, giving the gumbo its deep color and flavor. Pour 4 teaspoons of vegetable oil into a separate heavy skillet (avoid thin pans) over medium-low heat.

Slowly stir in 1/2 cup of flour to make the roux. Keep a close eye on it; if the phone rings, let voicemail handle it. Cook, stirring constantly, until the roux develops a dark mahogany color and a nutty or grainy texture. If you see any black specks, the roux is burned—discard it and start over. A good roux can take anywhere from 30 to 45 minutes to cook.

Once the roux is ready, add the chopped onions, garlic, and peppers. Stir them in slowly, as the hot roux will still be sizzling. The moisture from the vegetables will start to cook off.

At this point, you might add another quart or two of water to the main gumbo pot, if needed, to thin the base before adding the roux.

Add more water if necessary; the roux will keep the gumbo thick. Return the pot to a boil, then simmer for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and let it simmer, uncovered, for another 2 1/2 to 3 hours.

This long simmer allows the flavors to deepen and meld.

Add the shrimp. Stir them in slowly as you increase the heat one last time. Now is the time to stir in the 2 tablespoons of filé powder. Cook for another 20 to 30 minutes, until the gumbo has thickened and the shrimp are cooked through.

Taste and adjust the seasonings one more time. Seafood gumbo is traditionally served over Louisiana rice (or your favorite plain brown or white rice). Before serving, taste again and make any final seasoning adjustments. Turn off the heat and remove the gumbo from the stove.